Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Some Subtle Suiting Style

I'm going to do a full post on suiting when I have a little more time to write one, but for today here are a few tips that will help with any double breasted jacket. 

1. Double breasted jackets go in and out of high fashion about every ten years. You have to just accept this part and go with it if you're that way inclined, but for most normal people they tend to (like most normal cut jackets) stay permanently in fashion.

2. Most people always have to have the buttons moved. You can almost never take one of these of the shelf and expect it to look its best, either move the buttons yourself or get a tailor to do it. As far as I am aware M&S do an alteration service that's highly regarded and quite cheap. 

3. Any more or less than four or six buttons on a double breasted jacket will look a bit stupid. The buttons are arranged in a way that streamlines the male figure. 

4. Double breasted suits aren't for fat guys! There has been a bit of an association with these and overweight men, but actually I think that single breasted clothing often works better on larger guys (the streamlining is a bit more pronounced) and younger guys can really pull these off. I like to wear my double breasted tweed jacket with jeans and an open shirt for more informal occasions, but by simply switching to chinos the outfit suits more formal occasions also.

Examples:

To be fair this isn't the worst jacket I've seen recently, but have a look at how the jacket creases around the middle buttons. This means that he needs to have the jacket taken in or out (I'm not a tailor so I don't know which).

actually quite like the jacket, although I would add that the lapels are quite large even for a double breasted jacket (they're normally on the larger side anyway) and the top two buttons really should be more angled outwards to streamline the figure more. 

Also, don't wear turnups! They just add an unnecessary horizontal line that makes you seem shorter (being short I would know this). 









As per usual, David Gandy (my hero) knows how to rock it.
If you can have your hands in your pockets and still have the jacket look that great you know you're on to a winner. 

Unlike in the image above the buttons clearly streamline him and the addition of the waistcoat also helps in this. The Jacket has clearly been tailored properly and the buttons are exactly the right place. 

Also, he's just amazing (no homo)!

Anyway, I hope this has helped someone and until next time:

Dress Hot  Be Hot! 

I own none of these images.

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